Mother’s Day: Make scrambled eggs her way

As a mom, I know there’s no better gift on Mother’s Day than being served breakfast in bed, complete with the Sunday paper. So the menu I propose here is an extra-special plate of scrambled eggs that doesn’t require Herculean effort by the spouse (and kids) to prepare.
But before you start cooking, you’ll need to interview Mom about just how she likes her scrambled eggs: light and fluffy or dense and creamy.
That’s right, there are two distinct styles. The light and fluffy guys are made by beating the eggs with a little half-and-half and some salt. The addition of half-and-half and the beating aerates the eggs, ensuring that the cooked curds have a light texture.
Dense and creamy scrambled eggs are a French thing. For these, you beat the eggs with the half-and-half and salt just until they are mixed.
Finish the eggs with sauteed wild mushrooms, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and truffle oil, but feel free to experiment with your own garnishes. Making tender and tasty scrambled eggs is all about the technique. The garnish is secondary.
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Start to finish 25 to 45
minutes, depending on method
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
½ pound mixed mushrooms, sliced
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
8 large eggs
¼ cup half-and-half
1½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ ounce grated Parmesan cheese (½ cup using a rasp-style grater, ¼ cup using the fine side of a four-sided grater)
Chopped fresh chives, to garnish
Truffle oil (optional)
Buttered toast, to serve
In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of butter. Add mushrooms, a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper, then cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a bowl and cover them with foil.
If you want lightly and fluffy American-style eggs:
In a medium bowl, whisk eggs with half-and-half, thyme and ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper until they are light and fluffy.
Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet and set it over medium heat. When butter is completely melted and the foam has subsided, add eggs. Use a heat-proof (silicone) spatula to stir the eggs, scooping them into the middle of the pan and folding them gently in on themselves, until they are almost all set, but there still is a little liquid egg in the pan, about 2 minutes.
Remove skillet from the heat, stir in mushrooms and cheese, then season with salt and pepper, if needed. Divide between 4 plates. Sprinkle chives on top, then drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Serve each portion with buttered toast.
If you want creamy custard-like French eggs:
In a medium bowl, use a fork to beat the eggs with half-and-half, thyme and ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper until just combined (and you can see no more separate whites).
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the skillet over medium-low heat and add eggs. Using a heat-proof (silicone) spatula, stir eggs constantly, until they are almost all set, but there is still a little liquid egg in the pan (there will be almost no curds), about 20 minutes.
Remove skillet from the heat, stir in mushrooms and cheese, then season with salt and pepper, if needed. Divide between 4 plates. Sprinkle chives on top, then drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Serve each portion with buttered toast.
Servings: 4
Nutrition information per serving (both versions): 350 calories; 240 calories from fat (69 percent of total calories); 27 g fat (14 g saturated; 0.5 g trans fats); 475 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 17 g protein; 440 mg sodium.
--By SARA MOULTON
The Associated Press
EDITOR’S NOTE: Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.”