Embracing more grains? Here’s the needed cooking primer

When Samuel Kim was growing up, his mother often spiked the family’s white rice with amaranth, barley, quinoa and other whole grains to boost its nutritional value.
“My mom is one of those people who looks for the health benefit in everything,” says Kim, executive chef at Washington, D.C.’s 1789 restaurant. “Any new fad or trend, she’s reading about it and adding it to her diet.”
In this case, Kim’s mom was ahead of her time. Whole grains have crossed the frontier from hippie fad into mainstream American ingredient, showing up not only in restaurant fare such as Kim’s freekeh and black quinoa-studded dishes, but also at salad joints and in multiple supermarket aisles (not just the natural foods sections!).
Driven by a new awareness of healthy eating, increased demand for gluten-free products, and a desire to spark up their kitchen routine, more Americans are reaching for exotic grains with mystifying names such as teff and triticale. Sales of grains in natural food stores rose more than 40 percent from 2013 to 2014, according to market research firm Mintel. Quinoa remains the leader, with nearly 80 percent of sales, but farro and freekeh showed the greatest growth.
And it isn’t just in natural foods stores. Unusual grains are being sold throughout mainstream grocers, from the sushi by the deli counter to yogurts studded with blends of grains and seeds.
The Milwaukie, Oregon, grain and flour company Bob’s Red Mill saw quinoa explode roughly five years ago, said a company spokeswoman. Executives there realized that if people were excited about one obscure South American product — which technically is a seed, but is eaten like a grain — perhaps they would be interested in other whole grains.
“It’s a gateway grain for these more unusual grains,” said Bob’s Red Mill marketing manager Amanda Carter. “Quinoa has become a pantry staple. We see the potential for that to happen with these other ancient grains as well.”
In 2013, the company re-branded some of its whole grains under a new label with packaging that offered a cultural history, nutritional benefits and recipes. The “Grains of Discovery” line now includes 16 whole grains and seeds, including bulgur, farro and sorghum, Carter said. Quinoa still is the company’s best-seller, but farro is second. Sales of millet have nearly doubled.
While whole grains have gained cache, the perception that they are difficult to prepare or require a lot of time stops some cooks from using them. But many grains, such as millet, amaranth and buckwheat, cook as fast as — or faster than — white rice. Slow-cooking grains such as wheat berries or rye berries can be soaked overnight like beans then briefly boiled, says cookbook author Maria Speck, who outlines techniques in her new book “Simply Ancient Grains.” Once cooked, they can be stored in the refrigerator for days, Speck says, or even frozen.
“If you have a pot of these grains in the fridge or freezer, you’ll be suddenly so surprised at your own creativity,” Speck says. “Throw a handful of millet or wheat berries into a soup or a salad. Here you have a meal, and suddenly it’s nourishing and you haven’t done any cooking because you have your grains at the ready.”
FARRO
An ancient variety of wheat with a nutty flavor and creamy texture, farro makes a good substitute for rice in dishes such as risotto.
For the shortest cooking time and best results when working with whole farro, Maria Speck, author of “Simply Ancient Grains,” says to cover 1 cup of farro with 2 cups of boiling water, then let the grain soak, covered, overnight. When ready to cook, turn on the heat and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the kernels just begin to pop. It also can be cooked in a large pot of boiling salted water, as you would pasta, then drained, but it still must be soaked overnight.
Semi-pearled farro — the variety you are most likely to find at most mainstream grocers — does not need to be soaked and can be cooked using the same two boiling methods, but with cooking time reduced to 20 to 25 minutes, Speck says. In all cases, let the fully cooked grain stand in the covered pot for 10 minutes before serving to absorb any remaining moisture.
PILAF: For mushroom farro pilaf, in a large skillet melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. Add 8 ounces of sliced mushrooms and cook until browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add 2 cloves minced garlic, 1 diced small yellow onion, 1 diced small carrot and 2 diced celery stalks, along with 1 cup pearled farro. Stir for 2 minutes, then add 2 cups chicken broth and cover. Reduce heat to simmer, then cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the farro is tender. Season with salt and pepper, then top with toasted almonds.
FRITTERS: For farro and cheddar fritters, combine 1 beaten egg with 1/2 cup milk. Stir in 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder and hefty pinches of salt and pepper. Mix in 1 cup cooked farro and 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese. Heat a small amount of vegetable oil in a large skillet and drop the farro mixture by the tablespoonful, flattening the mounds with the back of the spoon. Fry until golden brown on the bottoms, then carefully turn over. Fry on the other side until golden and the fritters are cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes total. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper towel-lined rack. Repeat with remaining farro mixture. Serve warm with hot marinara sauce.
QUINOA
Quinoa, the gluten-free ingredient that pretty much started the latest whole grain trend, actually is a seed grown in the Andes Mountains. But most people treat it as a grain.
Available in golden, red and black varieties, quinoa is slightly crunchy and highly versatile, good for everything from soups, salads and side dishes to vegetarian burgers. For perfect quinoa, combine 1 cup of quinoa with 1¾ cups water in a heavy-bottomed pot. Cover and gently simmer for 10 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the grains sit, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
STUFFING: For quinoa sausage stuffing, in a skillet over medium-high, cook 8 ounces of loose sausage meat with 1 medium chopped onion, 2 stalks chopped celery, and the chopped white portions of 2 leeks. Saute until everything is tender and browned. Stir in 2 cups of cooked quinoa and ½ cup dried cranberries. Add 2 tablespoons of butter and ½ cup chicken broth and cook for 3 more minutes. Serve alongside a roast chicken or turkey dinner, or use as a stuffing for the bird.
SALAD: For Greek quinoa salad, in a large bowl combine 2 cups of cooked quinoa, 2 tablespoons capers, ? cup sliced Kalamata olives, ¼ cup chopped cherry peppers (hot or sweet), ½ cup crumbled feta cheese, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 3 tablespoons minced fresh oregano, 2 cloves minced garlic, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and a few good grinds of black pepper. Serve over a bed of greens and drizzle with olive oil.
FREEKAH
A traditional food of the Middle East and North Africa, freekeh is wheat that is harvested young, then dried, giving it a smoky taste and aroma.
To cook whole freekeh combine 1 cup of the grain with 2½ cups of boiling water and soak, covered, overnight. When ready to cook, turn on the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the kernels just begin to pop. Whole freekeh also can be cooked in a large pot of boiling, salted water, similar to pasta, then drained, but it still must be soaked overnight.
Cracked freekeh, which is the most common variety sold in the United States, does not require soaking and can be cooked using both of the above methods in about 15 to 20 minutes. In all cases, let the fully cooked grains stand in the covered pot for 10 minutes before serving to absorb any remaining moisture.
TABBOULEH: Freekeh is similar to bulgur wheat and can be used interchangeably in recipes that call for it, such as tabbouleh: Combine 2 tablespoons each of chopped fresh mint and oregano with 1 cup chopped fresh parsley, 1 cup cooked freekeh and 2 minced cloves of garlic. Season with salt and pepper, then dress liberally with lemon juice and olive oil.
BURGERS: To make curried freekeh chickpea burgers, combine 1 clove minced garlic, 2 chopped scallions, 1 tablespoon curry powder, ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and a 15-ounce can (drained) of chickpeas, reserving the liquid from the chickpeas. Stir in 1 cup of cooked freekeh, with just enough of the reserved chickpea liquid to make a thick mixture that holds its shape when you squeeze it together. Shape into 6 patties and sear on both sides in a hot skillet with olive oil. Serve with your favorite burger toppings on a toasted bun.
(Recipes by Alison Ladman)
--By MICHELE KAYAL
The Associated Press